ADVANCED
INDOOR SOIL-BASED GROW ETHODS
NEW, ADVANCED WAYS OF IMPROVING YOUR CANNABIS plants' yield have emerged
over the past several years and some methods have become quite popular.
The three most common types of advanced indoor growing are SOG, ScrOG
and cabinet growing. SOG and ScrOG are ways of growing serious numbers
of cannabis top colas. Cabinet growing is a method of stealthily growing
several plants in the corner of any room without drawing too much attention
to your grow. Although these methods don't have to be soil-based (you
can adapt a hydroponics setup to use these methods as well) soil is the
most widely used medium in these setups, and so will be the focus of this
chapter.
The idea behind these advanced indoor grow methods is that, in most cases,
the cola is going to produce the most bud so why not try to get that part
of the plant to grow really big by creating an environment that concentrates
on the top part of the plant? After all, the bottom branches of indoor
cannabis plants don't catch much of the light cast from your HIDs. Enter
SOG, which stands for Sea of Green and the two other advanced indoor grow
methods we will discuss in this chapter.
PREPARING THE SPECIAL CLONE MOTHER1
Before we discuss these popular advanced grow methods we will touch on
cloning because this is an important part of advanced cultivation. Before
you select that ^special' plant that you wish to replicate numerous times
via cloning you must first of all grow out a test crop from seed. During
the third and forth week of vegetative growth you take cuttings from all
the test plants and label each one.
You must not flower any of these cuttings. If any of cuttings get too
big to manage then reproduce them by taking further cuttings from each
one and labeling them. Continue to grow the test plants and flower them
by manipulating the pho-toperiod. At this point you can remove the males
and the corresponding male clones because we are only looking for a special
female. At the end of the test plants' flowering period you should be
able to identify the 'special' mother plant that has done better than
all the others. The corresponding cutting that was taken from this 'special'
plant is then allowed to grow to its full size. The other cuttings are
simply discarded because you will not be using them. In order to ensure
that you find a good 'special clone mother' you should try and grow more
than twenty plants. Good breeders will test grow as many as 100 or even
1000 plants to find a truly exceptional specimen.
The reason for taking the cuttings before flowering is so that you will
not have a bunch of flowering cuttings, which need to be reverted to vegetative
growth.* That would be too time-consuming.** If the clone has flowers
on it then it can be flowered right away by manipulating the photoperiod.
The result is much like a piece of bud on a small stick. Clones carry
the same age as the parent plant they where taken from. Not only that
but they are sexually mature enough to flower if taken from a flowering
plant. If they only had a week to go before flowering then you will have
to wait a week before you can flower them. You can flower two-inch clones
if they were taken from a plant during the flowering cycle. They will
finish when their flowering time is over but the quantity is reduced because
the clone was not allowed to grow more node regions during vegetative
growth. In short, clones are best if taken from the mother before flowering
begins.
A cutting that is taken in the vegetative state allows the grower more
control over the plant. That is why you should take lots of cuttings from
different plants during the vegetative stage of growth and then later
select the clone(s) that came from the 'special clone mother1. You might
want to allow the 'special clone mother' to fully flower at the end of
the test grow to confirm the plant's potency. The corresponding clone(s),
on the other hand, will not have flowered yet because you will have kept
the clone(s) in a constant state of vegetative growth under a 24-hour
light cycle. It is your job, as the grower, to then take multiple cuttings
and grow these multiple clones into a room full of highly potent,’
special females'!
You should also keep at least one cutting from this original clone mother
elsewhere and in the vegetative growth stage so that you can continue
to take cuttings. This clone that is put aside becomes the new 'clone
mother' and is the source for all our future clones of this special plant.
The disadvantages of selecting for that special clone is that it takes
time to grow the test crop and you need two grow spaces to house your
plants. Once you have finished harvesting, you must grow the special clone
for three weeks before you take multiple cuttings from her. How many cuttings
you take depends on how many clones you want to grow to full maturity
next time around. Sometimes you might have to go another round in order
to generate enough clones. Clones also share the exact same problems —
be it pest resistance, nutrient requirements or genetic disorders. If
a problem affects one clone then it will generally affect all the rest
just as quickly. The advantage of using clones is that you can have a
room full of identical copies of that special plant you really liked.
You will not need to prune the plants to keep them in formation. It is
possible to produce twice the harvest size of the test grow based on the
selection of a clone that yielded more than others did.
For clarity we will list each process step by step.
1. Grow a large test crop.
2. Take cuttings from each plant and label everything.
3. Do not flower the cuttings.
4. Continue to grow the test crop.
5. Remove the males during flowering and their corresponding clones.
6. Select the best female at the end of flowering and her corresponding
clone.
7. Grow the new clone mother but do not flower her.
8. Take multiple cuttings from the new clone mother when she has developed
lots of branches. You can use pruning techniques to increase branch numbers.
9. Use these clones as your next source of genetics for your following
grow.
10. Keep at least one clone aside and do not flower it. It will be. The
next clone mother.
Growers like to sometimes swap or buy clones because it prevents them
for having to grow a test crop and select a special female. Although this
method is certainly less time-consuming it means that you will have to
communicate with other growers and this is a security risk. Sometimes
medical cannabis clubs offer clones for sale to medical users.
Although any of the advanced growing methods can be done from seed you
will not get all the benefits unless you use clones.
SOG
A SOG setup can be any size but must maintain the same basic shape and
follow certain SOG rules. In SOG grows you're looking at one plant per
square foot or even one plant per 0.1 square feet. Very short Indica plants
can be grown in as little space as 0.1 square feet. Most Indica varieties
can be grown in less that 1.0 square feet but in general most growers
end up using 0.5 square feet per plant. Pure Sativa strains generally
do not need to go much more than 1.5 square feet in SOG. This should give
you a good idea of how many clones you will need for your grow area.
Next, you need to select pots for the setup. SOG calls for tube-shaped
pots or pots of greater depth than width. You can make these yourself
or buy these pots in a store. The objective here is to pack as many pots
full of plants as you can into the SOG grow area so that it becomes a
big cluster of pots with clones. This is the basic rule of any SOG grow.
Pack everything in as densely as you can. The clones are planted all at
once, after which time no new plants are introduced into the SOG grow
room. When they have reached the desired height (keep it small), they
should be flowered. It usually takes about one to two weeks of vegetative
growth before the clones are ready to be flowered.* Because the clones
have been taken from a mother plant, they are effectively adult plants
carrying the age of the mother plant with them and don't need to spend
much time in the vegetative growth stage of the life cycle. Since you
took them from a plant that was nearly flowering they'll start to flower
shortly after you introduce the 12/12 light cycle.
The end result will be a full, dense canopy of bud, hence the name Sea
Of Green. Because you're using clones, you only have to grow them for
the remainder of their flowering times. You can expect to turn out a large
quantity of bud every couple of months (a short period of vegetative growth
with a full period of flowering).
SOG essentially uses clone plantlets to increase the rate of bud production
in a growing operation. It is especially useful where grow height is a
problem because the plantlets will never reach their optimal size. SOG
plants are always much shorter than plants grown from seedlings and they
are flowered as quickly as possible in the SOG environment. You can not
do this with seedlings because young cannabis plants are not sexually
mature enough to be flowered like this. In fact sexual orientation is
not even genetically determined until the third of fourth week of vegetative
growth. This same rule applies to feminized seeds that can become males
under certain conditions.
SCROG
ScrOG is like a SOG grow except that fewer plants are used in conjunction
with a screen to fill the grow area with heavy top colas — hence
its name, ScrOG or Screen of Green.
The screen is simply a large wire mesh placed between your light and the
plants. Again, clones from a female plant are used, but we allow at least
one square foot per flowering plant in the ScrOG method. The plants aren't
flowered until they have covered the entire mesh with green. As the plants
grow up through the wire mesh they're trained and worked around the netting
to form a very even canopy. The top colas and side branches are all trained
under the screen.
There are many variations of the above two methods, yet they all utilize
the same principles. SOGs and ScrOGs were originally developed to get
the most out of poor quality fluorescent lights. The grower would line
the roof of the shelf or box with fluorescent tubes to try and get the
most out of their grow. Today's growers, using good HID bulbs, have taken
these setups to a new level: pushing their buds to the limit. Some people
even grow top colas that are the size of large corncobs or soda bottles!
ScrOG Growing by Real High
Real High is a ScrOG lover and has been growing ScrOG style for some years.
He has added a bit to the ScrOG method through his experience with the
process. This should help you understand more about the ScrOG method and
what people have learned with this new technique.
My setup is like a SOG growing, but a screen is used to train the plant
to grow horizontally, creating a canopy of buds beneath the light. The
screen is simply made from chicken wire or nylon poultry fencing, or you
can use hooks and 20 Ib. fishing line to make the net.
This picture shows a ScrOG variation. II
Is a small SerOG setup for a cabinet growing. Tins picture also contains
a homemade octagonal vented hood for a 250-watl HPS light. Picture by
foi.
The screen is installed at a fixed height above the plant medium. For
Indica varieties the screen does not need to be much more than 8 inches
above the pots. Indica Saliva hybrids need about 12 inches white Sativa
plants tend to have longer internodes so you may have to use a screen
that is about 18 inches above the pots. If your strain is a pure Sativa
variety, like Haze or Thai, you may have to raise your screen to around
24 inches. This space allows the base of the plant a certain amount of
vertical growth before branching occurs on the clone. The clone should
start to branch just under the screen but if it does not do not worry
because you are going to be training them anyway. The light should be
suspended by adjustable chains so that it can be raised if necessary.
ScrOG growing doesn't require as many plants as SOG (allow at least one
square foot per flowering plant), but takes anywhere from one to three
weeks longer per grow because we will be in the vegetative growth stage
longer than a SOG grow to allow the plants to fill out.
The plants are trained to grow horizontally under the screen until they're
two weeks into the flowering cycle, at which point you let the tops grow
vertically through the screen. You should always train the main growing
tops from the outside of the screen moving inwards so that the colas are
focused as closely as possible on the light dispersed from the bulb. You
will not be able to get all of them centered under the light, but you
should aim for this shape. As the tops grow vertically, push the large
fan leaves down under the screen, allowing the light to get to all the
developing bud sites.
If leaf growth is excessive, you can first cut fan leaves in half making
a shorter leaf and allowing light to get to the bud site. Leaving half
the leaf on the plant still allows it to make energy for the plant to
grow. Taking a whole fan leaf away in one go can stunt growth. In about
a week, you can take off the rest of the leaf. Some people don't remove
the leaf at all, but I do it to help with air movement, reduce the chance
of mold or fungus and to allow more light to penetrate the bud sites.
Just remember to remove a little at a time if you do remove leaf mass.
At this point flowers are forming and growing vertically, creating a
carpet of bud above the screen. Now we go below the screen and remove
all the lateral branches and stray bud sites. The canopy has thickened
enough that light is blocked from reaching this lower growth. It's only
diverting your plants' energy away from the buds. You can remove all branches
that haven't made it to the screen and the stray bud sites but you may
experience stunting. Although you want the plant to concentrate all of
it’s grow energy on the developing flowers above the canopy, removing
too much leaf mass and branching can prevent additional flowering.
The three main differences between a SOG and ScrOG grow are the number
of plants grown, the use of a screen and the slightly longer grow cycle
of the ScrOG. Both methods can be done under the same light and in soil
or with hydroponics. There are many variations of the ScrOG grow —
including V-ScrOG, Stadium ScrOG, Flat ScrOG and Cylinder ScrOG —
but they are all based on the same principles. They work essentially the
same way but use different shapes.
One of the best strains available for your ScrOG garden is C99. You will
find that a pure Indica or Indica dominant cross will produce the best
in a ScrOG grow. A good ScrOG grow will average two ounces of bud per
square foot of screen, but you can't expect this the first few grows,
because it takes proper timing and the correct strain to accomplish this.
ScrOG was originally designed for grow areas limited in height and lit
by fluo-rescents. Today's growers are using HID lights for growing ScrOG.
They've taken it to the next level with these lights and are generating
far greater results. Today's grower is always trying something new to
improve the production of their favorite plant.
So there we have Real High explaining how he has worked with the ScrOG
system. As you can see, he's added more to the basic ScrOG grow. With
experience, practice and experimentation, you too can create your own
customized grow.
++ Some Notes on SOG and ScrOG Growing
Even though M H and H PS lights can be used in conjunction with ScrOG
and SOG grows, most ScrOG and SOG growers will use HPS because of the
short vegetative period before flowering. Sometimes growers use smaller
wattage HPS lights like the 250W and 400W series to keep the cost of electricity
down and bud production within an acceptable range. In fact, ScrOG grows
are so dense that smaller lights are sometimes more cost-effective than
lights in the 600 to 1000W range, but again this depends on your strain
and level of experience. If you get it right you can effectively direct
95% of available light onto your bud. The end result is like a canopy
of pure bud with the light belting down on top of it all for 12 hours
a day.
Some ScrOG growers like to tie the center of the screen down to avoid
it being pushed up by the center of the bud production, which should be
the most vigorous since it is directly under the light. If the plants
were to push the screen up it would affect the overall results because
the light would not be able to reach all the bud areas. The pushing effect
could also cause stems and branches to break.
You should not leave your plants growing in vegetative growth for too
long because this causes more leaf matter to develop than bud which will
make our SOG or ScrOG grow less effective. Also watch out that you do
not crush or pinch the stems as this will cause branches to develop at
those areas or close to them. Branch development means that plant energy
is being used in leaf and branch promotion rather than bud production.
You can experiment with different shapes of ScrOG to see how it affects
your overall yield. Some ScrOG growers even advocate a dome shaped screen
to match the curvature of light dispersal patterns — however it
must also be said that the differences between shapes in the final yields
is not always significant and the overall effect is more exciting looking
than anything else.
CABINET GROWING
Although cabinet growing is not truly an advanced method of cannabis cultivation
it certainly is a very popular one because of its ease of use, containment,
stealth and harvest results. A cabinet can be anything from a small closet,
an old refrigerator, a box or a simple cupboard. The grow area is usually
small and can accommodate one to twelve plants at a time. The idea behind
a cabinet grow is to keep a cycle of plants growing at all times. There
are three things a cabinet grower needs to get started. They are:
1. Cabinet
2. Lighting
3. Air vent with fan
Most people simply set up their lights so they are adjustable by using
versatile chains or a spring-type cord. A large hole is made in the cabinet
to allow air to enter while another hole is made to allow air to escape.
A fan is placed in one of the holes to extract the hot air being generated
by the heat from the bulb. This vent and fan would be near the top of
the cabinet close to the light. Hot air rises and should be extracted
from the top of the cabinet. The intake hole is on the opposite side of
the grow area and can have a fan inside. This fan is generally moving
quicker than the extractor fan to allow a fresh supply of air to circulate
before leaving the grow room.
Your cabinet can be air-cooled in a few ways. The most common way is
to mount a 4-inch dryer flange on the hood and link from the hood flange
to the exhaust fan flange with a 4-inch dryer hose. A fan can be mounted
on the hood also.
The walls are painted flat white or Mylar is hung for reflective purposes.
The plants are usually placed in separate pots and spend their entire
life cycle within the cabinet environment. Clones are taken and placed
on a shelf in the cabinet. Some people have made small compartments in
their cabinets for clones and germination. Such a compartment can be any
size, but is usually kept small enough to just keep the clones alive.
This small compartment will probably have one or two fluorescent lights
for the clones. It would be best to keep the compartment at the top of
the grow chamber near the exhaust fan. You don't need an intake fan for
these clones unless it is a big setup. A simple hole in the side will
allow the plants to breathe.
After harvest, the clones are put into the grow cabinet and the process
is repeated in a perpetual grow cycle; the legal term is a marijuana factory.
In this kind of setup, you can harvest bud every 30 days with the right
strains.
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